Properties: antioxidant (hydrophilic), stimulant of skin matrix synthesis, moisturizer, antiage.

Use: use as is

Further information:Superoxide dismutase: In the human body, the main chain breaking antioxidants are the water soluble superoxide dismutase (SOD) and the lipid soluble alpha-D-tocopherol (vitamin E). SOD is a particularly stable enzyme that converts the destructive superoxide radical into a less dangerous form, hydrogen peroxide (which will, in turn, be converted into water and normal oxygen by the enzyme catalase). In our cells, we have our own SODs, but we can protect our skin by supplementing them with topically applied SOD. The size of the SOD used in skin care varies between 10,000 and 30,000 molecular weight, relatively small for an enzyme but large enough to be excluded from live cells. The fact that SOD is unlikely to enter live cells is not a problem. Lipid peroxidation occurs everywhere in the skin, not just in the live cells. The role of SOD is to eliminate the free radicals resulting from lipid peroxidation and to prevent the chain reactions that would eventually reach deeply into the skin, and topical application of SOD will certainly help to achieve this aim.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate: the "real" ester-C, a more stable and oil soluble form of ascorbic acid, will stimulate collagen synthesis. Anti-age, anti-oxidant (hydrophilic), anti-acne, skin brightening, decrease appearance of sun spots.

Pomegranate extract: Antioxidant, antimutagenic, chemopreventive, this fruit, with a great treasure of historical and myth, is full of antioxidants, nutrients and vitamins. Also contains phytosterols, ellagic acid, ellagitannins, ursolic acid, polyphenols, anthocyanidins and more.

Tetrahydrocurcuminoids: antioxidant, protects the skin against UVB-induced erythema, skin lightener. the chemical modification of curcuminoids, the powerful actives in tumeric (Curcuma longa) make it easier to incorporate them in cosmetics. The original strong yellow becomes white, at the same time facilitating the use of this anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory active by the skin. Helpful in preventing damage to your skin by UV are ferulic acid, green tea GCG, caffeine (also from green tea), gamma oryzanol, etc.

Ferulic acid: cancer preventive, protects the skin against UVB-induced erythema, skin lightener. Ferulic acid is also an antioxidant that increases stability of vitamins C and E.

Glutathione: L-Glutathione (gamma-L-Glutamyl-L-cysteinyl-glycine) is a tripeptide composed of the amino acids L-glutamine, L-cysteine and glycine. Glutathione is a crucial element in the antioxidant defense system of the cell, together with superoxide dismutase, catalase, alpha-D-tocopherol (vitamin E), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), etc. All of these antioxidants are required to defend the cell (and the skin) from the powerful, destructive, oxidants formed during the course of metabolism, such as superoxide, hydrogen peroxide, peroxyl oxides and hydroxyl radicals. The role of glutathione is fundamental, and impairment of the glutathione system results in damage to the cell membrane and death of the cells.

It is worth noting that the ligthening activity on skin shown by hydrocoumarins and beta-tocopherol is through the induction of the synthesis of glutathione. It has been shown that the presence of glutathione can inhibit cell death induced by hydrogen peroxide, a powerful oxidant formed during UV irradiation. One of the effects of green tea on skin is to ameliorate to some extent the decrease in glutathione caused by UV irradiation. Glutathione is lower in photoaged and normally aged skin. Although skin ageing is clearly a complicated process, research indicate that the concentration of intracellular glutathione is very important and that depletion of this concentration may play a significant role in the progression of cellular ageing in human skin.

Lycopene: a carotenoid and the key antioxidant in tomato (Lycopersicon esculentum) responsible for the many health benefits of tomato (tomato eaters have lower risk of several types of cancer). Lycopene traps singlet oxygen, making it a great antioxidant, but that is not all of it. At physiological concentrations it inhibits cell growth of some human cancers without toxic effects on normal cells, apparently by upregulating a gene, connexin 43, that restores cells to normal proliferation.

Niacinamide:  a vitamin, but even when following a normal healthy diet, topical application of niacinamide will result in increased synthesis of collagen, keratin, involucrin and flaggrin. Topical application of niacinamide will decrease pruritus and inflammation, help acne affected skin, decrease oiliness, alleviate atopic dermatitis, decrease UV-induced skin cancers and help decrease facial pigmentation. For unkown reasons, niacinamide (2.5%) seems tolighten the color of Asian skin, brightening dull and sallow skin. These are just a few of the beneficial effects of topical application of niacinamide to the skin, and it would be suspicious that there are so many were it not for the crucial role of this chemical in human metabolism.

Hesperidin methyl chalcone:  a citrus derived antioxidant hesperidin methyl chalcone that strengthens blood vessels and decreases capillary permeability.

Sea kelp bioferment: Fucus vesiculosus is a sea macroalgae rich in caragenaan, algin, minerals and many active chemicals. Fermentation makes the cell contents of this algae readily available to your skin, moisturizing it and providing the nutrients required to synthesize new components. This is the key ingredient (the Miracle Broth™) in Crème de la Mer, Fucus vesiculosus is fermented by the same microorganisms that convert milk into yoghurt. Complement this active with rosehip or black cumin seed oils to supply the essential fatty acids required to maintain cell integrity.

Sodium PCA: this derivative of glutamic acid (an amino acid) is very hygroscopic, i.e. absorbs large quantities of water. It is one of the natural components of "natural moisturizing factor", which por skin produces to slow down water loss to the environment. It sfull name is sodium-2-pyrrolidone carboxylate, INCI name sodium PCA.

Sodium hyaluronate: animals and some bacteria can make this long chains of N-acetyl-D-glucosamine alternating with glucuronic acid. The job of this glycosaminoglycan is to stabilize the intercellular (between cells) space, particularly in connective tissue. Unfortunately our dermis loses thickness as we age, in part because we lose hylauronic acid, so it is a good idea to stop this thinning of the dermis Because of its water holding capacity having this active in your creams, lotions, gels or serums will help keep our skin moist. Also, hyaluronidase in the skin will breal it down and the sugars released will be used to make new hyaluronic acid in our dermis. Great active!!!!

L-Carnitine:  "almost a vitamin", carnitine increases skin elasticity and stimulates fatty acid metabolism. L-carnitine is a derivative of the amino acid lysine, and it is named after the material it was first isolated from, meat (carnus in Latin), in 1905. It was first believed to be a vitamin, and called vitamin BT, but humans can synthesize L-carnitine, although under certain conditions and depending on the diet the demand for L-carnitine may exceed an individual's capacity to synthesize it, making it a "conditionally essential nutrient".

L-Carnosine:  accelerates and improves healing. Prevents cross-linking of collagen and other proteins in the dermis, one of the causes of wrinkles and loss of elasticity brought about by aging and exposure to UV (sunlight). Carnosine is also an antioxidant and seems to improve the immune response. This natural peptide has also a relatively new trade name, Beta Alistine™, but research into its beneficial effects on healing go back to the 1980s.

Guaiazulene: this molecule, also called azulene, is a natural colored substance present in some flowers. It is an antioxidant and has anti-inflammatory activity.