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Azelaic Acid is Having a Moment, But Do You Need It?

Azelaic Acid is Having a Moment, But Do You Need It?

Posted by Dr. Hannah Sivak with Brendan Leonard on May 25th 2021

What is Azelaic Acid? Should I be using it?

These are good questions.

Azelaic acid is enjoying a bit of a moment right now in a very popular 10% formulation. 

But when you start to read reviews, the experiences of the people using these products are very mixed. Why is that? Is azelaic acid the next hot thing?

Well, the answer is rarely as simple as we would like it to be.

Azelaic acid is indeed a very fine ingredient. It is found in grains, specifically wheat, barley and rye, and a bio-identical version can also be synthesized in a lab. 

Azelaic can also do a lot for you, it gets used in formulations that tackle inflammation, uneven skin tone, and acne. It even gets used in high concentrations at the medicinal level, for both prescription and OTC acne relief.

But there is a down side too. Azelaic acid can have uncomfortable side effects ranging from a burning sensation at application to increased dryness of the skin. Additionally, make-up wearers have experienced high frequency of their foundations pilling while trying to get the most out of azelaic acid serums.

Why Can’t I Find Azelaic Acid in Skin Actives Formulations?

I mean, we’ve already said that it’s a great active! So why don’t we use it? Well, we carry a derivative of azelaic acid called Azeloyl Glycine, and we have since the very early days of Skin Actives!

Azeloyl glycine is great for DIY formulation for a couple of reasons:

Water Soluble - Azeloyl glycine is water soluble which makes it a lot easier to mix into your formulations at home. Not only will you be able to mix it into water based serums, you’ll also be able to mix it into creams more effectively. 

Enhanced Stability - When working with DIY components you want to get the most bang for your buck. Azeloyl glycine actually exhibits superior stability, meaning that its potency as an active ingredient lasts longer and is able to handle more stressors than azelaic acid.

Using Azeloyl Glycine Over Azelaic Acid

The solubility of azeloyl glycine should eliminate your problems with pilling, right off the bat. There is no heavy powder to soak up the cream or make-up you are applying to your face. 

You can add our premeasured 10 mL tube of azeloyl glycine to one of our great base creams or a serum of your choice to assist with skin tone, mild to moderate acne, or inflammation and redness. You could even add it to your favorite cleanser! 

Azeloyl glycine is one of the more reactive ingredients Skin Actives uses. Don’t use it if your skin is sunburned, windburned, dry, chapped, or irritated skin. It should also not be used on skin suffering from eczema or wounds.

Luckily, you can dip your toes in and try azeloyl glycine as an ingredient in one of our pre-formulated products. If you are looking to capture the potency of azeloyl glycine, try these and see how they go!

T-Zone Serum - This is a great place to start for people suffering from acne exacerbated by oily skin. Azeloyl glycine has been shown to attack acne bacteria growing in blocked pores.

Zit Ender - This overnight spot treatment takes on the worst of your blemishes, without using damaging, over the top ingredients like benzoyl peroxide. Skin health is worth the wait, confront your challenges the right way with actives that won’t flood your skin with free radical damage.

Skin Brightening Cream - Even if you are not suffering from acne, azeloyl glycine might be for you. If you are looking to even out skin tone, try our Skin Brightening Cream and skip the harsh bleaching treatments.