The Science of the Shave
Posted by Brendan Leonard on Mar 18th 2022
Like it or not, at this point in human history, shaving is something that we’re all more or less expected to do.*
Really, most Americans begin shaving relatively young as we exit childhood and enter adolescence. It’s a sign of change. We have to shed who we were and take on the habits of the adults we will become, even if sometimes biologically it’s a bit of a stretch.
Meanwhile shaving goes in and out of fashion as it has for hundreds, no, wait, thousands of years.
But interestingly, the science of shaving has remained consistent for the duration of human history.
So let’s take a look at that. What’s really going on when you shave?
How Sharp is Your Razor?
VERY!
When we were taught to shave the first lesson was probably that the razor is not a toy. Indeed! Razor blades are known for their unbelievable sharpness. A standard razor blade measures about 0.3 microns in width at its most narrow point.To put that in perspective, a micron is 1/1000th of a millimeter or 1/25,000th of an inch! While you might be able to perceive the edge of your razor, you certainly can never see how sharp the blade actually is.
This nearly invisible edge runs along your skin, cutting down hair in its path.
Recent studies have shown that human hair can be almost as strong as copper wire! And while the steel of the blade should in theory be a lot stronger than copper, the repeated impacts of the hair against the blade’s edge lead to chipping that causes razors to become uneven, dull, and leave microscopic tears in your skin.
Because of the physics involved in shaving, a lot of the technological innovation that has gone into shaving centers around the blade.
Fortunately for us, we live in an age of wonders where the straight-razor, a tool that has existed in one form or another for something like 3000 years, has been relegated to specialist shaves. Straight-razor shaves are the providence of either individual shaving enthusiasts or boutique barber shops that cater to the experience.
One of the things that made the straight-razor shave so dangerous and troublesome was the fact that only a single blade was being employed.
A multi-blade razor can cut more hair with less force, this means that the skin doesn’t have to stretch as much, and less pressure can be applied. The downside is that multiple razors dragging across your skin increase the amount of friction from the process. It also increases the amount of blades that could experience dings in their edge.
For this reason we have seen some of the single-bladed razors of yesteryear returning to fashion once again. Though whether this is a trend or a fad remains to be seen.
Our founder, Dr. Hannah Sivak, describes the multi-blade innovation like this:
“By spacing the blades closer together, the skin bulge is reduced and more uniform stress is placed on the skin, resulting in a safer, more comfortable shave.”
This is true just as much for women shaving their legs as for men shaving their faces.
Taking Care of Your Skin When You Shave
When we’re shaving we’re trying to cut the hair, while avoiding cutting the skin. With these two things so close to one another, it becomes a task. So what’s the best way to do it? Let’s turn to Dr. Sivak and see what she has to say:
“Treatment of the skin before shaving and the choice of shaving razor matters, because they affect the chemistry and physics of the hair, the skin, and their interaction. Skin hydration, barrier function, erythema and dryness, are all affected by pre (and after) treatment.
Shaving involves a highly complex series of mechanical and chemical interactions occurring at the surface of the stratum corneum. You wouldn’t believe the scientific sophistication of the studies about shaving! Physics of the hair and the skin and the shaving razor, with measurement of everything involved. Still, there are problems caused by shaving, and safety is still the main issue, followed by hair entrapment by the skin.”
If you’d like to hear more from Hannah, check out her personal blog about the science of the skincare industry, here.
So what should you do to get the most of your shave?
Before - Your shave begins before the razor touches the skin. Make sure that your skin is warm and moist. You can achieve this by warming your skin in a hot, damp towel, but you are going to need water in there, moisture.
As it turns out, one of the things that makes hair soft and pliant is that it absorbs water when wet, which makes it both thicker and softer. This makes the job of the razor that much easier to cut when you glide it across your skin. Many people shave in the shower or directly after a shower for this reason.
During - Many people shave “against the grain” of their hair. Science shows us that this is the predominant cause of skin irritation, post-shave redness, and so-called “razor burn”. So start with shaving with the grain.
Choose a shaving cream that is going to help, not hinder your skin. It’s tempting to reach for the cheapest thing you can get, or the thing that smells the nicest. But the truth of the matter is that your skin is a vital, living organ for your body and the process of shaving is running a razor across it. Use each shave as an opportunity not just to lubricate the razor, but to hydrate and sustain your skin.
Skin Actives’ Hydrating Shaving Cream debuted last year. Its formula is based around Sea Kelp Bioferment, to help give your skin the nutrients it needs to be successful while you are shaving. It also contains Beta-glucan to soothe irritation and jojoba oil to leave your skin feeling smooth.
After - Because shaving can be hard on your skin, be prepared to take care of it after. And that doesn’t mean dousing it with some alcohol and oxidant laiden “after-shave”. Be on the lookout for irritation caused by a dulling blade and refresh your razor. You can also help to soothe inflamed skin with our Skin Soothing Serum.
If you find that ingrown hairs are a concern that you are grappling with, try adding Skin Actives’ Salicylic Cleanser to your routine in the affected areas. Salicylic Cleanser has a mild exfoliating effect and may be able to release hair trapped by thin skin before you start to suffer from irritation or infection.
Thanks for reading everyone, we’ll be back again next week with new blog topics. Have a great weekend!
*This may be changing, or the trend against shaving in general may just be a fad. Only time will tell.