Reformulating one of our most popular products was not a task that we undertook lightly here at Skin Actives Scientific. The original serum was fantastic at providing the exfoliating benefits of ascorbic acid, but sedimentation frequently clogging the pump nozzle got in the way of product enjoyment. Since ascorbic acid is a terribly unstable ingredient to work with, we needed to make certain changes to solve this problem and help increase product stability.
Solubility issues were worked out by adding ethoxydiglycol, a solvent for ascorbic acid which also helps moisturize the skin, and propanediol. Our corn-sourced propanediol is not only renewable, it also acts as a solvent for the ferulic acid while increasing the stability of the solution. To further increase the stability we worked in EDTA, a heavy metal chelator which will decrease the free metals in the formula which would work against ascorbic acid stability.
The serum's signature orangey-yellow color was maintained by keeping Skin Actives' Antioxidant Booster as a main source of this product's antioxidant support. Antioxidant Booster contains a combination or orange and red colored xanthophylls and vitamin E derivatives, which act as fat-soluble antioxidants in tandem with the water-soluble ascorbic acid. Providing both fat and water soluble antioxidants is necessary for the various parts of the skin.
Following Dr. Sivak's expert recommendations, we worked phytic acid into this new serum. Phytic acid is a fantastic antioxidant and can inhibit melanin synthesis, reducing hyperpigmentation. When used in conjunction with vitamin C, another antioxidant known to help with pigmentation issues, these two ingredients help to fade spots more efficiently.
While the ingredient list has changed for this product, the efficacy and intention behind it has not. Our goal is to make a more stable, easy to use, and consistent product for our customers while delivering the results that are expected of Skin Actives.