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Skincare Trend Alert: Nonapeptide

Skincare Trend Alert: Nonapeptide

Posted by Susan Katz on Feb 21st 2023

We at Skin Actives like to stay abreast of the latest skincare trends. In fact, we are usually well ahead of the trends when it comes to ingredients. For example, we started using epidermal growth factor and keratinocyte growth factor before anyone else. More recently, we launched our honeybee defensin-1 which is another amazing ingredient that no one else is using (yet). 

So when something new is buzzing around the industry, we take a look and do our research to decide if we want to include it in any of our products. We review published scientific studies when evaluating or developing ingredients. We don’t use any ingredients that do not have a body of studies that prove its safety and efficacy when used in the correct concentration. We do not use something because everyone else is doing it and we don’t use an ingredient as label value.

Lately we have seen people looking for nonapeptides. So, we asked our esteemed owner and chief formulator, Dr. Hannah Sivak, about it. Here is her reply:

“Nona from Latin, having nine (remember hexagon, heptagon, etc.?).

Is a nonapeptide better than an octapeptide? Or than a decapeptide?

It doesn’t matter how many amino acids; the sequence is what matters. In this case, the stereospecificity also matters because a couple of amino acids used in this particular peptide are not present in proteins, which are all Levo amino acids. The actual sequence of this nonapeptide, described by Jayawickreme et al. (1994), is Met-Pro-D-Phe-Arg-D-Trp-Phe-Lys-Pro-Val-NH2Why does it matter? Because it has to do with a spatial 3-D structure that will bind to the hormone receptor, blocking access to the normal hormone and preventing it from working. The idea is to prevent the binding of the α-Melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) to its natural receptor.”

What can we say, she is a former professor of biochemistry. For the rest of us non-scientists, a nonapeptide is a peptide with 9 amino acids that is said to help lighten dark spots associated with sun damage and aging. However, from one study, we do not know how effective a nonapeptide is. And since there is very little research about it, we don’t recommend using it. There just isn’t enough evidence yet. 

Will a nonapeptide-1 skincare product work for you?

For people with sunspots on your skin, will a product with nonapeptide-1 work is the question. The simple answer is it might, but it might not. It’s an experimental chemical that has not been tested for that purpose so we cannot provide a definitive answer. The good news is that even if it doesn’t work, there may be other ingredients included in that product that have been proven to work. The problem with sun and age spots is that they are very hard to get rid of. It takes consistent application of skincare products with enough of the right actives to attain the lightening that you desire. We are talking 6 months or longer. 

Best Skincare Ingredients For Sun and Age Spots

We’ve done the extensive research and found the best active ingredients to help reduce the appearance of sunspots and age spots. We’ve included many of these actives into our popular skin brightening and UV repair products. 

Top Active Ingredients For Uneven Skin Tone

Niacinamide is a powerhouse ingredient that not only helps eliminate the formation of dark spots and uneven skintone, it also helps to reduce redness, irritation and dryness. Its known to help with fine lines caused by oxidative stress on the skin.

Kojic Acid is a gentle exfoliator that works to help reduce the appearance of sun and age spots. 

Arbutin Powder is safe and effective at lightening dark spots.

Betulinic Acid helps to improve skin’s firmness and reduce dark spots. 

Licorice Root Extract helps promote collagen synthesis while it reduces irritation, in addition to working to lighten those pesky dark spots.

Lemon Peel bioferment is a powerful antioxidant and may help to prevent signs of aging cause by UV exposure.

Take a look at all the ingredients we sell that address hyperpigmentation.

The Skin Actives Way To Reduce Hyperpigmentation

First of all, say NO to experimental chemicals of doubtful efficacy and stick with Skin Actives. Here are five reasons to try Skin Actives:

  1. Our products are made with ingredients that are proven to work in independent scientific studies.
  2. Not only do we only use ingredients that have evidence to back them up, we use the concentrations that are proven to work.
  3. We don’t follow the trends just because they are trending. Any new products and ingredients we bring to you will be backed up with science. Just ask us.
  4. We have skincare experts on staff to answer your questions.
  5. You can completely customize your skincare by mixing our ingredients into your products. No one else offers complete customization like we do.