In an industry where information can be overwhelming and misleading, Skin Actives is committed to providing you with the most reliable and up-to-date insights on active skincare ingredients. We understand that making informed choices about your skincare regimen is essential for achieving the results you desire. That's why we take pride in offering accurate information, backed by science and expert knowledge.

As we journey through the world of L-Ascorbic Acid and its skincare benefits, you can trust that Skin Actives is your go-to source for understanding how this remarkable ingredient can transform your skin. Our dedication to transparency and education ensures that you receive the guidance you need to make informed decisions about the products you choose and the routines you follow.

Join us on this exploration of L-Ascorbic Acid and discover the true potential of Vitamin C in skincare. With Skin Actives as your trusted partner, you can embark on a skincare journey that leads to healthier, more radiant skin.

The Origin of L-Ascorbic Acid

As Dr. Hannah Sivak explains, the term "vitamin" is assigned to a substance when its absence leads to a deficiency disease. In the case of Vitamin C, its deficiency results in scurvy, a debilitating ailment that plagued sailors and pirates for centuries until the discovery of its remedy in citrus fruits in 1753. While most animals can synthesize their own Vitamin C, humans have lost a crucial enzyme needed for its production, making L-Ascorbic Acid an essential nutrient that we must obtain through our diet or skincare products.

The Antioxidant Power of L-Ascorbic Acid

One of the key roles of L-Ascorbic Acid is its function as an antioxidant. Specifically, it is a water-soluble antioxidant, allowing it to participate in various cellular reactions. Dr. Sivak points out that this water-soluble nature sets it apart from vitamin E, which is lipid (oil) soluble and works within cell membranes. Both vitamins are essential because they cover different aspects of cellular protection.

Beyond its antioxidant properties, L-Ascorbic Acid plays a pivotal role in skin health by facilitating the synthesis of essential compounds. For instance, it acts as a cofactor in the synthesis of carnitine, tyrosine (an amino acid), and collagen—a crucial protein in the skin's structure.

The Role of L-Ascorbic Acid in Collagen Synthesis

Collagen is a complex protein that undergoes numerous modifications in structure before becoming the collagen found in our skin. As Dr. Sivak explains, one critical modification involves hydroxylating proline and lysine residues in the peptides. This process is catalyzed by enzymes that require ascorbic acid as a cofactor. The inability of the human body to complete this transformation due to a lack of ascorbic acid is the root cause of the many symptoms of scurvy.

This insight sheds light on the importance of using L-Ascorbic Acid in skincare, especially for those looking to support collagen production and maintain youthful skin.

The Chemistry of Vitamin C

L-Ascorbic Acid is a chemical compound with specific characteristics that make it a valuable skincare ingredient. Its ability to act as both an antioxidant and a cofactor in enzymatic reactions highlights its versatility and importance in skincare formulations.

Ensuring the Freshness of Vitamin C Serums

One of the critical factors in the effectiveness of Vitamin C serums is their freshness and stability. Dr. Sivak provides valuable insights into maintaining the potency of these serums:

• Oxidation: Ascorbic Acid is vulnerable to oxidation when exposed to air. When it oxidizes, it changes color and loses its efficacy. The Vitamin C Serums from Skin Actives both have a somewhat dark yellow color to start out with because we also add an antioxidant booster to our formula. This color is not an indication that the product has oxidized. Because of the stability added by low pH of our serum (pH 1.5-2.5) and added antioxidants, our Vitamin C 20% serum has a shelf-life of about 6 months from manufacturing date when stored in the fridge, 8 months for the 15%. This may be shortened at room temperature.
• Shelf Life: The shelf life of a Vitamin C serum depends on its acidity. Dr. Sivak recommends checking the pH of any L-Ascorbic Acid serum to ensure it is below 3.5 for optimal stability. Refrigerating the product can also slow down oxidation and extend its lifespan.
• Combining with Other Ingredients: Vitamin C should not be combined with metallic ions like copper or zinc in skincare formulations as it may lead to unwanted reactions and instability.

Incorporating Vitamin C into Your Skincare Routine

Dr. Sivak provides guidance on incorporating Vitamin C into your skincare routine:

1. Frequency: For daily use, the 15% Vitamin C Serum is recommended or you can use a non-acidic form of Vitamin C like Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP), which is especially good for sensitive skin. Higher concentration L-Ascorbic Acid serum, such as our Vitamin C Serum 20% or fresh L-Ascorbic Acid crystals dissolved in water can be used as exfoliants, but caution is advised to avoid over-exfoliation.
2. Combining with Other Products: Vitamin C serums can generally be followed by other skincare products without waiting for the skin's pH to return to normal. However, for products containing delicate proteins like epidermal growth factor (EGF), it's recommended to wait at least an hour to ensure the proteins are not damaged.
3. DIY Option: Skin Actives offers Ascorbic Acid Powder, ensuring freshness and allowing users to customize the level and type of vitamin C to their preferences. Simply mix into water or our base spray for your own Vitamin C toner.  Or you can take a pinch or two in your palm and mix with your favorite moisturizer for maximum freshness.

The Importance of Choosing the Right Vitamin C Derivative

Dr. Sivak also addresses the importance of choosing stable and effective Vitamin C derivatives in skincare products. She highlights Magnesium Ascorbyl-2-Phosphate (MAP) as a suitable derivative, as it penetrates the skin and converts to L-Ascorbic Acid. This conversion allows MAP to provide Vitamin C benefits, such as protecting the skin from UV damage and inhibiting melanin synthesis. MAP is able to be used with proteins and peptides without hindering their effectiveness.

Additionally, Ascorbyl Palmitate, an oil-soluble version of Vitamin C, is mentioned as an option for specific formulations. However, it's crucial to remember that the primary role of Vitamin C is as a water-soluble antioxidant. Skin Actives has chosen not to use Ascorbyl Palmitate in our formulations.

Here are some Skin Actives' products that contain Vitamin C, along with recommendations on how and who should use them, as well as how to incorporate them into a skincare routine:

1. Vitamin C Serum 15%
• What it does: Skin Actives Vitamin C Serum 15% lightly exfoliates, provides antioxidant support, and helps reduce dark spots for a smoother, more even skin tone. It promotes elasticity and collagen synthesis, reduces free radicals formed by the sun, and helps reduce the formation of dark spots.
• Who should use it: Suitable for most skin types, especially those looking to address dark spots, uneven skin tone, and promote collagen production.
• How to use: Apply a small amount of the serum to clean, dry skin in the morning before applying sunscreen. Gently massage it onto your face and neck, avoiding the eye area. Follow with your regular moisturizer and sunscreen.
2. Vitamin C Serum 20%
• What it does: Skin Actives’ Vitamin C Serum 20% visibly improves the appearance of aging skin and photodamage by reducing fine lines and wrinkles. It chemically exfoliates the skin, leaving it noticeably smoother, softer, and brighter. This serum contains vitamin E and ferulic acid, which are antioxidants that help fight free radicals and reduce the appearance of dark spots.
• Who should use it: Suitable for normal, oily, and combination skin types, especially those concerned with signs of aging and photodamage. Not suitable for sensitive skin.
• How to use: Apply a small amount of the serum to clean, dry skin once or twice a week as an exfoliator. Gently massage it onto your face and neck, avoiding the eye area. Follow with your regular moisturizer or with our Every Lipid Serum or Complete Lipid Restoring Oil to reduce skin irriation.
3. Vitamin C Toner
• What it does: Skin Actives' Vitamin C Toner helps cleanse and tone the skin while providing protective antioxidant benefits. It's formulated with Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) instead of L-Ascorbic acid, making it a great option for protecting your skin from harmful UV rays and pollution. It tightens pores, balances your skin’s pH levels, and helps even out skin tone while providing hydration.
• Who should use it: Suitable for all skin types, especially those looking to protect their skin from UV rays and pollution, tighten pores, and maintain balanced skin.
• How to use: After cleansing your skin, apply the Vitamin C Toner twice a day (morning and evening) by using a cotton pad. Follow with a serum or moisturizer to lock in the benefits. Consider pairing it with Skin Actives' Hyaluronic Acid Moisturizer or Hyaluronic Acid Serum for added hydration.

Vitamin C, in the form of L-Ascorbic Acid, is a potent and versatile ingredient in skincare. Dr. Hannah Sivak's insights shed light on its significance in maintaining healthy and youthful skin. Whether you're seeking antioxidant protection, collagen support, or overall skin rejuvenation, Vitamin C is a valuable addition to your skincare routine. To ensure its effectiveness, choose stable formulations, monitor freshness, and follow Dr. Sivak's expert advice on usage. By harnessing the power of Vitamin C, you can enhance your skincare regimen and achieve radiant, healthy skin.